Did you know that the conventional globe shape of beetroot is a modern development? In the Victorian kitchen garden, you’d have been more likely to find beetroot long and cylindrical, even carrot shaped.
Some of these old cylindrical varieties are still available, and one which is worth seeking out is a French variety called Rouge Crapaudine. The name means red and toadlike, a reference to the rough outer skin, which sometimes becomes fissured like tree bark. The root is long and narrow and dark red. Mentioned in gardening books as far back as 1856, Rouge Crapaudine is thought to be the oldest beetroot variety still in cultivation.
More than just a novelty though, the coarse outer skin hides the most exquisitely sweet and tender flesh which tastes better than any modern variety I’ve tried. The flavour is more refined and less earthy than most beetroot, which makes it very nice to eat raw as well as cooked. The flesh has a firm but tender texture and a gorgeous deep red colour. The easiest way to cook it is simply to give it a quick rinse and wrap it in some foil, then pop it in the oven for half an hour. When it’s done, the skin scrapes off very easily. Cylindrical beetroot is much easier to peel than globe-shaped beetroot!
Rouge Crapaudine also looks pretty in the garden, producing stems of a vibrant cerise-red, and pale olive green leaves veined with red.
You can pick the tender young leaves to add to salads, which make a very healthy and colourful addition. Use them sparingly though, as they have a deep earthy flavour which can overwhelm other more subtle flavours.
10% off at Victoriana Nurseries
Anyone visiting Victoriana from F&F will automatically get a discount on their order. Click the link above.
Image a day
Helen at Toronto Gardens
I happen to think that beets fresh from the garden are the ultimate reward for the vegetable gardener (fresh spuds come close; well, and peas… but beets are hard to beat). You write very persuasively about the little crapaudes. I know that my francophone husband would be convinced. I’ll have to look for some Canadian sources for next year. Cheers, and happy gardening!
Chiot's Run
Very interesting. I tried growing some craupaudine beets last year and they didn’t so so well. I’ll be trying them again though, I think it may have just been a bad year for them. These would be so perfect for pickling, lots of similarly sized slices.
Rebsie Fairholm
Thank you Helen for a nice comment! I hope you find some.
Chiot’s Run – yes do give them another go. And you’re right, the cylindrical beets are perfect for slicing.